Yank n' Yard '07

I hate bouldering. In bouldering, they call routes, problems, but I have a problem with the whole sport. What's the point of climbing up a rock that's only ten feet tall? It's like a bunch of people that were scared of heights wanted to rock climb, so they created bouldering. And it could take you all day to figure out a single problem; many times, I've had to come back to finish a problem another day. Bouldering requires a lot of technique, and you know what they say, technique is for the weak. I guess I'm lacking in technique and strength.

Since I got back from Central America, Kenny and I were working on some endurance training at the gym, climbing as many routes in a row as we could. As you may or may not know, Kenny and I are going to Indian Creek with some friends in a couple of weeks; Kenny wanted to get stronger for the Creek, so he wanted to switch to bouldering for awhile. Needless to say, we started bouldering a couple of weeks ago.


The only video of me climbing at the competition.

Just a few days ago, Lexi asked me if I was competing in the bouldering competition, the Yank n' Yard, at the gym. I didn't know anything about it, but it sounded like fun so I signed up on Thursday, two days before the comp.













I was curious to know how points were scored at a comp but it's pretty simple: Every problem is worth a certain amount of points, depending on how hard it is. You can climb as many problems as you want and your score is the total of your best 8 problems. You have as many tries on a problem as you want. We had 4 hours for the competition.

On Saturday, I arrived at Stone Age and was a little nervous but very excited for the competition — 67 new problems in the gym is like a fat kid walking into a new chocolate store and telling him he could sample whatever he wants.

I started off the comp with some easier problems and was climbing better than I expected. As I climbed, I began to get more and more comforatable and tried harder and harder routes. The first half of the comp went really well, I finished 6 problems that were progressively harder and worth more points.

As I started climbing routes that were
harder, I started taking a lot of falls. I tried two harder routes and with about a dozen falls between the two routes I started getting pumped out; I never finished either route.

Then I heard that here was only 30 minutes left in the comp and I still had two problems to finish. I tried to finish a couple of easier routes but I was already pumped out and could hardly stick to anything. I finished the comp having only competed six of the needed eight problems; needless to say, my score was very low.

Initially, I had registered in the Beginner Class but a couple of friends told me that I should probably move into the Intermediate Class; having never been in a comp before, I took their advice. As it turns out, I did so bad, they kept me in the beginner class and I took third place; believe me, I'm not bragging.

I was really disappointed with my performance at the competition; I know I could have done a lot better—oh well. I haven't been bouldering that long and it was my first comp, but it was a lot of fun, I met a lot of people and learned a lot from the whole experience. Unfortunately, during the comp I fell into the trap, and like every other simple mind, I gave into bouldering and I think I'm gonna stick with it for a while.

Video's of us Screwing Around After the Comp.


One of my favorite probs from the comp.



One of the two routes I didn't finish at the comp, this is my first attempt after the comp. Kenny is filming me and holding on with one hand at the top of the bouldering cave...



Sean acting like a girl. He looks a lot better than me through the whole problem but he doesn't stick it at the end.